Welcome to "The Russ Guide
to Thailand" at http://russguide.netfirms.com
| Introduction:
This website aims to tell you
everything you need to know if you're planning your first trip to Thailand.
It starts with the
things you should sort out before you go, and continues on the assumption that you've
just landed at Bangkok airport and are looking for a pleasant way to spend your
well-earned vacation. It gives tips about what to
do and where to go, the Thai people, culture and language, and there's a page on
things you should avoid. The text is based on my own experiences,
which means that this guide is the result of hundreds of hours of
painstaking research, undertaken from the discomfort of a thousand cafes,
restaurants and bars. It isn't supposed to be a comprehensive guide to
every "deserted" beach or every "undiscovered" hilltribe.
You need
a proper guidebook for all that stuff although, of course, if it's in a
guide book, it'll be neither deserted or undiscovered. That's
tourism for you. It's also written from my own
perspective - English bloke, once a frequent visitor, now living and working in
Thailand - which means that the way I see
the world may not be how you see it. Notwithstanding these limitations, I hope you find
it helpful in planning and enjoying your trip.
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| Where is Thailand?
If you're starting from the UK, Thailand is the other side of India, beneath China, on the way to
Australia. It's a hot, wet, green and tropical country
of about 60m people, and Thailand's neighbours are Burma
to the west, Laos to the north, Cambodia to the east, and Malaysia to the south.
It's capital, Bangkok, is 6,000 miles (10,000 km) from the UK, and a direct flight from Heathrow
takes about 12 hours. You can normally get a return flight from the UK on a reasonable
airline for between £400 and £600.
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People:
On the whole, I've always found the Thai
people to be friendly, tolerant, modest and good humoured. On the downside, most
of them seem to be Manchester United supporters. There are many cliches
about Thailand, but its nickname as the Land of Smiles is not all tourist
industry hype. Complete strangers on buses will smile at
you just for something to do. School kids on their way home
will shout "hello - what is your name?". And people relaxing in a bar after work
will offer you a sip of their drink, and ask you if you know David Beckham.
At first,
all this unexpected friendliness can be a little unnerving. If you're
used to western city life, you'll probably suspect that they're after your
money, but in fact most of the time, they aren't. They just like
smiling. It's infectious
too, and you'll soon be grinning along with everyone else.
Language:
Thailand was never colonised
by European powers, and the Thais are quietly proud of their history of
independence. The British, French, Dutch and Portuguese carved up the rest of the region, but Thailand retained its
independence. The
language is Thai, and the script is an incomprehensible series of
squiggles. However, basic English is taught in schools, and in most of the tourist
areas, you will find people with enough English to cover the bare
essentials. Most German, Dutch and French tourists find themselves having to
cope with communication in English, so English speakers already have
a head start. Dual Thai/English language
menus and road signs are common in most towns and cities, but there's no
universally agreed method of transliteration, so don't worry if the word on
the signpost isn't exactly the same as it says in the guide book. It might
say Chana Road in your Lonely Planet, and Jana Road when you actually
arrive, but
it's the same place. Although you can get by with just English, it's much more fun to
learn a little Thai. And here's
a great little website where you can hear some common words and phrases with
their meanings.
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The King:
All over Thailand there is widespread affection and respect
for King Bhumibol (pronounced more like "poom - ee - pon"), who celebrated his
75th
birthday in December 2002, and who has been on the throne since the 1940's.
He's been a force for stability over a period of considerable
internal and external political upheaval in the region. He's regarded as an
educated, thoughtful and compassionate man. You won't win
any friends by being disrespectful about him or his family, and you could even end
up being arrested. (It is illegal to criticize the
monarchy!) You will see photos of the King,
his family, and their predecessors, all over Thailand - in bars & restaurants,
people's homes, in taxis, and in the little 3-wheeled death traps called
tuk-tuks. On some special Royal and religious holidays, the bars
stop selling alcohol. But don't panic, you can still buy beer and
whisky in regular shops, and the occasional obliging bar-owner may serve you
special "tea" in a
tea-pot and tea-cup.
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King Bhumibol
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Religion:
Most Thais are Theravada Buddhists, and unlike Christians, Jews,
Muslims and assorted others, they don't believe in an omnipotent
super-being, and prefer to avoid going to war with
people who do. You should be respectful
towards
images and statues of the Buddha, and around monks and Buddhist temples.
If
you set off to see a temple wearing only flip-flops and a thong, you
shouldn't be surprised if someone is offended enough to refuse you entry.
You wouldn't expect to get away with that in St Paul's Cathedral, so don't
expect to in Thailand. Generally, you can avoid causing any offence by covering your shoulders and
knees and everything in between. The only real exceptions are in the more
spectacular Bangkok temples, where the style-police can be very much more
fussy. On one occasion, I made a special effort with a long sleeved shirt
and Chinos, and was refused admission because guy didn't like my sandals.
The best thing to do in these circumstances is to smile, and nod, and go and
find a shady place to sink a few beers instead. That's not bad advice
in
a number of situations.
Geography:
In Thailand, there's a
wide variation in landscape types, from the forested and mountainous parts in the north,
across the dry and dusty north-eastern plateau, over flat green rice paddy
fields in the central area, to tropical rainforests and palm-fringed beaches in
the south. It's hot everywhere most of the time, but around November and
December things can cool down at night in the north and north-east. Elsewhere,
you'll be trying to stay cool, not warm.
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Food:
When it comes to reasons why you should
try a holiday in Thailand, the people, weather, and spectacular scenery
are only rivalled by the fabulous food, which is cheap, spicy, and available everywhere.
One of the guide books says that it often seems as if half the population is
permanently engaged in feeding the other half. If you like
clean, spicy, fresh flavours, you're going to love the Thai food in Thailand.
It's based around rice, noodles, vegetables, and
seafood, all spiced up with chillis, garlic, lemon grass, coriander, and
fish sauce.
Prices:
Thailand
is a cheap place for westerners to enjoy a holiday, once you've got there.
Transport, accommodation, food and clothing are all available for a fraction
of the costs found in Europe, and there are great bargains to be struck in
the local and tourist markets all around the country.
Women Travellers:
The Rough Guide says that most western women travellers find harassment in Thailand to be less of a problem than back home.
Outside the main tourist spots, Thai people will be more interested in you because you're a foreigner than because you're a woman.
If you're travelling alone, they'll be much more concerned about your welfare than be interested in you as an object of
sexual aggression. I have several women friends who have visited the region on their own or with a girlfriend, and none of them have reported any serious harassment.
But I get a lot of enquiries from women about travelling in the region, so I've
summarised what the guidebooks say on the Things
to avoid page.
People with Disabilities:
On the whole, Thailand makes few provisions for disabled people, and people with restricted mobility will have problems negotiating ordinary streets and road crossings because of uneven pavement levels and a lack of ramps and dropped kerbs.
Ordinary buses and trains have high, narrow steps up, and many toilet facilities outside the tourist areas are pretty rudimentary by western standards.
Unfortunately, it seems that the only way around this general lack of accessibility is to pay more.
You may therefore have to visit as part of an organised tour, or pick the better western airlines and stay in the more upmarket hotels, who are
beginning to cater for people with disabilities.
Odds and ends:
Thai time
is 7
hours ahead of GMT, which means that when it's time for a mid-morning coffee in the UK, it's time to grab a
cold beer and watch the sun go down in Thailand. Electricity
is supplied at 220v AC, and most British electrical appliances seem to work
fine once you've found a plug adaptor. The lights sometimes go out during tropical downpours.
There are
two English language newspapers
available in Thailand - the Bangkok Post and the Nation. But just about all the television
is in Thai unless you're in a posh hotel. The Thais are very keen on national
holidays, and the calendar is packed with
excuses for having a party. The phone and
mail
systems are usually fine, and there are international phone booths
located near to most post offices. In most places - especially places
popular with tourists - it's easy to get connected to the internet
in internet cafes. You pay about 20B an hour. Banks
are open from 8.30am to 3.30pm on Mondays to Fridays, but currency exchange
booths are open much longer and at weekends in the main tourist areas, and
there are cash machines (ATM's) in all towns of any size.
The Thai Buddhist calendar
is a possible source of confusion for westerners, because the Thais are 543
years ahead of us. When we were all celebrating the start of the year 2000,
the Thais were entering the year 2,543 BE (Buddhist Era). And I was born in
2,505!
Guide Books:
There are lots of decent travel books about the region, including Lonely
Planet and Moon Travel, but the Rough Guide is my personal
favourite.
Feedback about this site: If
you enjoyed this site and want to say so, or if you want to share your
experiences about Thailand with other visitors, please feel free to sign
my guestbook. If you don't want to sign it, you can just view
it here. If you want to e-mail me privately, you can do so at
benbaaa@gmail.com.
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Visitors since 3 February
2000:

| This site was inspired by Chris Tait - thanks, Chris - in
December 1999, and was last updated on 19-Oct-2003.
All the mistakes belong to me, as
does the text. This site is not sponsored by anyone.
I don't make a penny out of it! |
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