Ao
Nang, near
Krabi - This was one of my
favourite places from about 1989 to 1995. Ao Nang is a lovely little beach not far from Krabi, with lots
of beach bungalow operations, some excellent seafood, a few bars, and some
offshore islands where you can go snorkelling during the day. Back in
1989, it was, in
the phrase of a rather cynical friend, just spoiled enough. These days,
the bungalows are a lot more expensive, and the soap-dodging back-packers
have long gone, but it's still a fairly pleasant place to hang out for a
few days.
How to get there - Song-taos
from Krabi leave every half an hour, and take about 45 minutes.
Where to stay - In
1989, I stayed at the Peace Bungalows,
a perfect location, in timber fan-cooled chalets around a lake. In about 1994,
the operation went way upmarket and renamed itself the Peace
Laguna Resort, with air conditioned bungalows and
western toilets, although the little wooden bungalows are still there if
you can catch an empty one. In December 2000, Pong and I stayed in one of
the posher air-con rooms for 3 days at 1,900B a night (!) inclusive of
something called "American Breakfast" which we never bothered
with. I tried to book the room in advance, but they didn't bother to
answer their e-mails, and said they didn't receive a booking by letter
which I sent a month in advance. This Is Thailand, as they say. Another
option which I used to go for in the mid-1990's were the BB
Bungalows, set among cashew nut trees on road
4203 heading back towards Krabi, but even these are a lot more pricey now.
In the
high season - December to February - all the rooms tend to fill up quickly
with couples and families, so if
you're staying in Krabi for a few days beforehand, take a trip out to Ao
Nang, have a wander around some bungalow set-ups, and book a place for
when you intend to stay.
What to do in the day - Swim,
have a wander, have a cold drink and some snacks, hire a boat to take you
on a trip. You can take a trip out to one of the islands you can see from
the beach, and snorkel over coral reefs literally just a few metres from
the beach. I think the island I went to was called Chicken
Island, or Ko Gai. You can also take a boat
trip out to Rai-lay Beach or Pranang Beach, just around the promontary.
At
Pranang, there's
a cave called Princess Cave where fishermen leave carved wooden phalluses
to bring them good luck in their fishing expeditions. Judging by the
selection of seafood available in all the Ao Nang restaurants, the phallus
thing works a treat. Jeff and Caroline once went on a sea
kayak trip around the mangrove swamps, but
the least said about that the better. (They got lost because Caroline
fancied the guide in the other kayak party). Another good day out
is to get a song-tao
up the road to Hat Noppharat Thara National
Park. The beach is flat and usually deserted,
apart from the millions of tiny little crabs that scuttle across the sand
between the beach and the island, which you can walk to at low tide.
Alternatively, there's a couple of cafes and some foodstalls where to can
pick up some snacks, and then sit under the Casuarina trees waiting for
nothing to happen, which it invariably does.
What to do at night - Eat
and drink! Don't expect to find a load of authentic Thai food here - this
is now a resort for westerners who like pizza. There are plenty of seafood restaurants,
but most of these boast about their Italian, Swiss or French food rather
than highly spiced tom yam goong.
There are a few little bars where you can enjoy a very cold beer and some bawdy chat
or a game of pool with the girls. My favourite bar back in the old days
was the Corner Bar,
run by a German called Mike, and (at the time) staffed by the most delightful bar staff
I encountered anywhere - a guy called Ham and a girl called Bai. If you
find them, say hello from me, and take along a photo of me so they know
who the hell you're talking about! Otherwise, the place is pretty tame,
because all the European visitors seem to go to bed at 11pm. Weird.