Bangkok
- well, where do I start? Thailand's capital city is a must-see for
first time visitors to the region, if only because you won't have
experienced anything like it before. It's an assault on all your senses
from the minute you leave the air-conditioning of the airport arrivals
lounge. Bangkok's 9m inhabitants whizz about doing business with each
other in some of the worst traffic jams you'll ever see; the air is heavy
and humid with the tropical heat, the traffic fumes, and the smells of
grilling food and drains; among the gleaming glass office blocks you'll
see little rusted corrugated iron shacks housing some people living in
shocking poverty; the noise of the buses and tuk-tuks
is unregulated. It's
a city crammed with motorbikes and taxis; stallholders selling all kinds
of food, t-shirts and fake Rolex watches; Royal palaces and temples;
spotless shopping malls and vast, squalid Asian markets; 50,000
restaurants; and go-go bars and massage parlours selling young flesh to
"wealthy" westerners.
How to get there - All roads,
railways and air routes lead to Bangkok.
Where to stay - There are
thousands of places to choose from, ranging from the most humble guest
house, sharing your smelly feet with a bunch of other soap-dodgers, to some
of the best hotels in the world. The main budget accommodation
area is
called Banglampoo, centred around the Khao San Road, next to the river and
just north of the Grand Palace and several amazing temples. You don't need
to book anywhere here, because there are so many places to choose from.
A
few years ago, I used to stay at the Sawatdee Guest
House, which is right
next to Wat Chana Songkhran, on Soi Chana Songkhran. The rooms are small
and clean, with en suite shower/toilets, but it's a popular place and if
you turn up at 5pm in the busy season, it could be full. It's got a really
decent restaurant geared to delicate western palates, and it's a good
place to hang about and meet other tourists (ooop, sorry "travellers")
from all over Europe and Australasia, if that's what you want. In the bar at the front, Jeff and I
once got outrageously drunk with a Norwegian guy who spoke perfect English with a
most attractive and convincing Scottish accent. We woke up much later the
next day, and checked out our wallets only to find that neither of us had
spent any money at all. We crept down to the bar sheepishly to pay what we
owed, but the bar staff just grinned and waved us away with a "You
pay already". We still haven't worked it out. If it was you,
Norwegian
guy, thanks. As I mentioned in the Before you go section,
it's also nice to get a little more
luxury for your one or two nights in Bangkok, so you could head for the
Amari Boulevard Hotel, Sukhumwit Soi 5, booked through Trailfinders.
There
are dozens of other hotels in the same area, so if you don't fancy
Banglampoo, I'd say try Sukhumwit.
What to do in the day - Take
a trip up and down the river Chao Phraya,
on one of the River Express Boats, which run both ways during daylight
hours ferrying office workers and schoolkids around. There are about 20
pier stops within the central area, and you'll need your Bangkok Bus Map
to work out where you are in relation to the sights on the river banks.
Use the bridges and the Grand Palace as reference points. The Phra Artit
pier is the right stop for Banglampoo, and the Chang pier is ok for the
Royal Palace. In addition to this public ferry service, there are loads of
river tour operators who set up business at the pier stops, and who can
organise your own trips into the smaller canals and khlongs.
The Grand
Palace and the two adjoining temples at Wat
Phra Keo and Wat Pho are unmissable Bangkok tourist sights, but don't
forget to dress appropriately, or you won't be let in. Sanaam Luang is a
nearby large open public space where royal and religious ceremonies are
held, or you can fly a kite, if you want. The National Museum is a short
walk to the north.
I've never been myself, but the weekend
market in Chatuchak Park, north of the city
centre, sounds like a lot of fun, with its 6,000 stalls selling
everything from fried noodles and silk shirts to musical instruments and
miniature flying squirrels. I'll go next time. Maybe. If
I've got the energy.
What to do at night - Bangkok's
50,000 restaurants
should keep you occupied for a short while, but it's the capital's
notorious sex industry which most people want to hear about. The go-go
bars and live sex shows
are a hangover from the Vietnam War, when American servicemen took breaks
from murdering poor Vietnamese villagers to enjoy some rest and relaxation
in the towns near their Thai bases. The yanks were eventually chased out
of Saigon by three Vietnamese on a bicycle, but in Thailand, tourists and
travellers quickly filled their boots, and these days, all manner of people come
to have a gawk at the night-time activities in Patpong Road. I've seen
whole coachloads of elderly German tourists file into the Pink Panther
go-go bar to enjoy a few cold beers as the bored Thai women jiggle about
on a stage in the middle of the room. If you want to visit one of these
places to see a live show, check on the drinks prices and any cover
charges before you go in. If you get into any difficulty once inside with
unexpected charges, pay up, and find the Tourist Police kiosk at the south
end of Patpong 1, and they should be able to sort things out for you.
Shopping for fake clothes and watches
is also a popular evening activity, and there are loads of stalls which
set up in the touristy areas, like Sukhumwit, Patpong, Silom Road, and in
Banglampoo. You can pick up a Rolex Oyster for about 600B, and the
guys doing the selling will guarantee they're genuine. Don't forget to
bargain, and keep smiling while you do it!
