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Thai flavours: chilli,
garlic, lime, lemon grass, shallots, coriander, basil...
Singha Beer is served everywhere, and you can
also get other Thai brands like Leo and Chang. There's a good strong
German beer called Kloster, or you can drink the more expensive imports,
Carlsberg and Heineken.
There are no licensing laws in Thailand!
(Well, maybe there are, but you'd never know). |
Food & Drink Golden Rules
1. Don't drink the tap water. The Thais don't.
Safe bottled
drinking water and potable ice are available in all restaurants, bars, supermarkets, and
hotels. Drink plenty of water.
2. Eat in places where other people are eating:
popular
restaurants and cafes have a quick turnover, which should mean the food is
really fresh.
3. Take it easy with the highly spiced stuff until you've got
used to it, but try something new every day.
4. For your main meal of the day, try to
eat Thai-style: order one dish per person and one for luck, and try to order
different things: one soup dish, one curry, one seafood dish, one stir-fry, one
salad, and so on. Plonk all of these down in the middle of the table so that
everyone can try a bit of everything. Don't expect soups or starters to turn up
first, because the Thais don't break meals up this way. The
food all arrives when it's ready, and you start eating when the first dish
arrives.
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Generally
The Thais don't like their food to be
flavoured too subtly. Their spicy dishes tend to be very spicy, their sour
dishes tend to be very sour, and their sweet dishes tend to be very sweet. For
your main meal, you'll be given a spoon and a fork, and the idea is to push food
onto the spoon with the fork. You will only be served with chop sticks when you
order noodle soup. (I am not making this up).
When you're dining Thai-style among
friends, it's considered polite to help yourself to rice first, then add a
spoonful or two of one of the main dishes to your plate. You should eat this
first before moving on to another dish. Piling everything on your plate all at
once is very rude. If you're sharing food with Thais, they'll often put food on
your plate from the communal dishes, and it's polite not to refuse it even if
you're stuffed to the gills. The way around this is simply to say thanks, and
then leave most of it on your plate. They'll soon get the message that you've
had your fill.
Rice is the staple carbohydrate,
and you can think of most Thai meat and vegetable dishes as being different ways
of flavouring your rice. The classic Thai fragrant steamed rice (khao
soway) will be served on a plate or in a small
bowl, so that you can spoon other dishes on to it. You will also encounter fried rice
and rice soup, which are
both good for breakfast. Sticky rice (khao nee-ow)
is popular in the north and north-east, and is served in a little basket. You
take a little in your right hand and roll it into a ball. You then dip the ball
into a dish of your choice and pop it into your mouth.
Noodles come in a number of
varieties (egg noodles, rice noodles, glass noodles), and are eaten either in
soup, or in stir fries, in salads, or with thin curry poured over (called khanom
jeen). Noodle soup (gway-tee-ow
nam) is great for breakfast.
Meat
is eaten by most Thais, generally in small quantities with stir-fries
and in salads and curries. You won't find lamb in Thai or Chinese cooking, but
thin strips of chicken, pork or beef feature in many recipes. You won't see steaks or chops or joints of meat unless you eat in a
Western-style restaurant catering for Westerners. If you don't fancy eating in
those kind of places - and I don't - you can still get a decent mouthful of meat from a foodstall selling
grilled or deep fried chicken, or sausages, or little satay sticks with pork,
beef or chicken.
Seafood is cheap and
readily-available in Bangkok and on the long peninsular coast down south. You
can get sea bass, silver pomfrets, snappers, huge prawns,
lobsters, crabs, squid, baby clams, oysters, green-lipped mussels, and just about anything else you fancy.
Vegetables are also plentiful and
cheap, and will usually come stir-fried and laced with garlic in a gravy made
with oyster sauce, fish sauce and/or soy sauce.
Strict vegetarians
and other fussy eaters (apologies, Chris) may miss out on
the best of Thai food, and few Thais that I've met are vegetarians. Pong says fish
sauce (nam
pla) is impossible to avoid. It's a thin light brown
liquid made from
fermented anchovies, and it's used where salt would be used in the west. It's as essential to Thai cuisine
as olive oil is to the Italians. Your
dishes will already include some, and there will be a bottle or bowl of it on
the table if you want to add more seasoning. It's mixed with lime juice, chillis
and garlic to make a ferociously hot dipping sauce for seafood called
prik nam pla. The Thais also use shrimp paste in their
curries and little dried shrimps in dishes like pad
Thai (stir-fried noodles). Stir-fried mixed
vegetables (pak pad ruam mit)
with almost certainly come with a gravy including fish sauce and/or oyster
sauce.
Fruits are available everywhere,
and they are also cheap. You'll see a bewildering array of things you've never
seen before, so try some. Crunchy green mangoes (ma-muang),
mangosteens (man-gut),
longans (lamyai),
rambutans,
papayas, and
durians are seasonally available in most markets.
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Food Basics
| Steamed rice |
Khao soway |
| Sticky rice |
Khao nee-ow |
| Egg noodles |
Ba mee |
| Rice noodles |
Gway tee-ow |
| Chicken |
Gai |
| Pork |
Moo |
| Beef |
Nu-er |
| Fish |
Pla |
| Prawns |
Goong |
| Vegetables |
Pak |
| Chillis |
Prik |
| Garlic |
Gra-tee-um |
| Ginger |
Khing |
| Fish sauce |
Nam pla |
| Soy sauce |
Nam see-ew |
| Oyster sauce |
Nam man hoi |
| Dipping sauce |
Nam jim |
| Salty |
Kem |
| Sweet |
Waarn |
| Bitter/sour |
Pree-ow |
| Water |
Nam |
| Drinking water |
Nam plow |
| Ice |
Nam kaeng |
| Orange juice |
Nam som |
| Lemon juice |
Nam manao |
| Coconut juice |
Nam maprow - best served straight from a young
green coconut with the top sliced off. |
| Coke, Pepsi, cola |
Ko-LAH |
| Sprite, Seven-up |
Nam spy |
| Soda water |
Nam so-DAH |
| Beer |
Bia |
| Singha Beer
Chang Beer
Leo Beer
|
Bia Sing
Bia Chang
Bia Lee-oh
|
| Sang Som Whisky |
Whis-sa-gee Sang Som -
more like a dark rum, and
often served with either coke or soda and a large bucket of ice. It's
cheap, and it gets you plastered. |
| Coffee |
Kaffay |
| Iced coffee |
Kaffay yen |
| Tea |
Nam chah |
| Chinese/jasmine tea |
Nam chah jeen |
| No sugar |
Mai sai nam tahn |
| With sugar |
Sai nam tahn |
| With milk |
Sai nom |
| Banana shake |
Nam gluay |
| I'd like some ....... please |
Ao ......... kop khun kap/ka |
| I don't want it spicy |
Mai ao pet |
| I like it spicy |
Kin pet dai |
| Do you have any..... ? |
Mee....... mai? |
| It's delicious |
Aloi maak |
| The bill please |
Check-bin kap/ka |
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Where to eat
Foodstalls: These
little mobile trolleys get set up in night markets (talaart
yen) and on street corners, and
each one will usually prepare one type of food only. Some will specialise in
fried rice and noodles, some in deep fried or barbecued chicken or seafood, some
in curries, some in drinks, and some in fruit. You just find a table nearby, and
order what you want from as many stalls as you want. You pay the nearest cook,
and the cook sorts out what you owe the other stalls. There's no territoriality
involved. Very cheap, and tipping is not expected.
Noodle Shops: You'll
see these everywhere. They're identified by a little glass cabinet at the front
of the shop displaying a selection of fresh noodles, vegetables, and meat -
usually crispy pork bellies, barbecued pork, or little fish balls. They
specialise in noodle soups. If you have trouble with the language, just point at
the things you want added to your soup. One of my favourites is egg noodle soup
with barbecued pork - ba-mee
nam moo-daeng. Again, very cheap, and tipping is
not expected.
Curry Shops: You'll
see trays or pots of rich looking red, green and yellow curries in cabinets at
the front of these. You're usually welcome to give the pots a stir with a spoon
to try and work out what's inside. Order what you fancy over a plate of steamed
rice. Thai green curry (gaeng khiow waarn)
has achieved cult status in the UK as a classic dish, but
I prefer the southern muslim-style curries which are red and called gaeng
mussaman or gaeng
pinang. Cheap - no tip expected.
Restaurants:
These
come in all shapes, sizes and price-brackets. Choose one that's got a good
number of Thai customers, and you're unlikely to be disappointed. Sometimes, the
menus are only in Thai script. Don't be put off - the trick is to learn the
names of some classic or favourite Thai dishes, and just ask for these. The
restaurant will usually cope with your mis-pronunciation. Eventually.
Bars: Bars
aimed at westerners will either not serve food - so-called "bar-beers"
- or will have an extensive menu of western and toned-down Thai food. Don't be
surprised to see "brattwurst mit brott", sauerkraut and pizza alongside
tom yam goong
on the menu in these places. I don't know about
you, but my heart sinks when I see a chalk board outside a bar offering roast
beef and yorkshire pud. Bars catering for mainly Thai customers will always serve food.
The Thais don't seem to go out for a beer or whisky session without also
ordering loads of food.
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Classic Thai food
| Stir fried noodles - usually
containing thin rice noodles, bean sprouts, tofu, spring onions, little
dried prawns, peanuts, fish sauce, lime juice and sugar |
Pad Thai
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| Egg fried rice (with
chicken/pork/prawns/ crab) - containing spring onions, and other vegetables
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Khao pad (gai/moo/goong/poo) |
| Stir fried noodles with soy sauce -
usually flat white rice noodles with green vegetables and strips of pork |
Pad see-ew |
| Egg noodle soup with "red"
barbecued pork - usually containing a thin soup base, with egg noodles,
pork, bean sprouts, spring onions, vegetables and coriander |
Ba-mee nam moo-daeng
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| Rice noodle soup with "red"
barbecued pork - usually containing a thin soup base, with rice noodles,
pork, bean sprouts, spring onions, vegetables and coriander |
Gway-tee-ow nam moo-daeng |
| Rice soup with chicken - a good
hangover cure usually containing a little celery, spring onions and maybe
an egg |
Khao tom gai |
| Omelette stuffed with minced pork -
good for breakfast over rice, and served with a mild, sweet chilli sauce |
Kai jee-ow moo sab |
| Fried mussels in batter with bean
sprouts and spring onions |
Hoi tort |
| Thai fried fish cakes, with lime
leaves and sweet chilli dipping sauce |
Tort man pla |
| Hot and sour prawn soup - with chillis, lemon grass, lime leaves, mushrooms, tomatoes and galangal
(similar in appearance - but not taste - to ginger) |
Tom yam goong
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| Hot and sour mushroom soup - as above
without the prawns, but it will include fish sauce as part of the soup
base |
Tom yam hed |
| Spicy chicken in coconut milk soup -
flavoured with lemon juice and galangal |
Tom kha gai |
| Deep-fried squid with garlic and
pepper - the "fried with garlic and pepper" (tort
gra-tee-um prik thai) combination is
very popular, and you can do it with fish, pork, beef, prawns and chicken |
Pla meuk tort gra-tee-um prik thai |
| Steamed sea bass with lemon, garlic
and chilli - somehow, it manages to be quite subtle, despite the addition
of piles of garlic, chilli, Thai basil leaves, and lemon juice |
Pla kapong neung manao |
| Sweet and sour fish - with chunky
vegetables including cucumber, tomato, large red chillis and pineapple |
Pla pree-ow waarn |
| Fried chicken with Thai basil leaves |
Gai pad bai gra-prow |
| Fried chicken with chilli |
Gai pad prik |
| Fried pork with ginger |
Moo pad khing |
| Fried beef with cashew nuts |
Nu-er pad ma-muang himaparn |
| Fried beef with oyster sauce |
Nu-er pad nam man hoi |
| Barbecued pork |
Moo yaang |
| Deep fried chicken |
Gai tort |
| Spicy pork salad with chilli and mint
leaves |
Laab moo |
| Spicy salad with glass noodles |
Yam woon sen |
| Spicy squid salad |
Yam pla meuk |
| Spicy papaya salad (papaya pok pok) -
sometimes ferociously hot, with chillis, garlic, lime juice, fish sauce,
papaya, green beans, tomatoes, dried shrimps, and peanuts |
Som tam |
| Fried crab in curry sauce/powder -
quite mild, and delicious if you get the crabs with eggs inside |
Poo pad pong kari |
| Stir fried pork with red curry - hot,
with Thai basil leaves |
Pad pet moo |
| Vegetable curry
- with baby corn, snake beans and Thai basil
leaves |
Gaeng pet jay
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| Stir fried prawns with asparagus |
Goong pad normai falang |
| Sweet green chicken curry - usually
very spicy, flavoured with chillis, lime leaves, and Thai basil leaves -
often served over vermicelli noodles in a dish called kanom
jeen |
Gaeng kee-ow waarn gai |
| Muslim-style chicken curry - milder
and sweeter than the green curry |
Gaeng mussaman gai |
| Crispy fried sweet and sour noodles |
Mee grob |
| Flash fried "morning glory"
leaves - a deep green vegetable popular with Thais, and fried quickly with
chillis, garlic and soy beans - you'll see a whoosh of fire from the wok
as the sauces hit the hot metal |
Pak boong fai daeng |
| Stir fried mixed vegetables |
Pak pad ruam mit |
| Chicken/pork/beef satay |
Sateh gai/moo/nu-er |
| Prawn crackers |
Khao kriab tort |
These are only a tiny selection of the dishes available.
I've seen some
extraordinary food served up and wolfed down by Thai friends, including live
prawns (goong ten - or "dancing prawns")
still jumping around having been doused with garlic, chilli, lime juice and fish
sauce, as well as huge deep fried insects on sticks, crispy beetles, horse-shoe crabs (like something out of
Alien), and scalded cockles which look for all the world as if they were raw and
dripping blood.
If you want more information about Thai ingredients and recipes, I found a
great little Chicago-based site here.
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