Kanchanaburi
- is 120km west of Bangkok, and its main claim to fame is as the
place where the Bridge over the River Kwai once stood. There's still a
bridge, but its not the timber one that broke Alec Guinness' heart - the
big baby. (That was only a pretend one built for the film in Sri Lanka).
The real bridge was blown up by American bombers in 1945. Kanchanaburi has
more to offer than just the bridge, though, and its a pleasant place to
hang around for a few days.
How to get there - On a
train from Bangkok's Hualamphong Station, or on an air-con bus from
Bangkok's southern bus terminal, the ride in either case is about 2 hours
30 minutes. I got the train when I went, and it was a very scenic journey
that passed in no time.
Where to stay - There's
a whole load of cheap guest houses and raft houses on the banks of the
river all over town. When you get off the train, or get dropped by the
bus, there will be a whole gang of tuk-tuk and samlor ("saam
lor" means three wheels) drivers waiting
to ferry you to their friend's place. To be honest, I can't remember the
name of the place I stayed in, but it was near the Nitaya Guest
House,
pretty much in the centre of town. The Rough Guide and the Moon Travel
Guide both say Sam's House is a good choice, but this means it may be
full. Just dump all your bags somewhere central and safe, and whizz about
in a tuk-tuk until you find somewhere you like in your price range.
What to do in the day - Go
and have a look at the Bridge, of course.
If you're there when the train
goes over, you may hear them playing "Colonel Bogey" over the
loudspeakers. There's also the JEATH war
museum, which starkly brings home
the horrors of the Japanese occupation of this part of Thailand during
WWII. When I was there, we also hired a boat to take us on a day's trip on
the river. We stopped off at several caves and temples, and also one of
Kanchanaburi's two prisoner-of-war
cemeteries. There are thousands of
graves are laid out neatly in rows among the pristine lawns and flower
gardens, recording the names of some of the allied soldiers who died
during the construction of the railway. Curiously, many more Thais were
killed than allied troops, but I didn't see any Thai names. A travelling
companion of mine also took a day trip to the waterfalls in the Erewan
National Park, 65km northwest of the town, and he said it was a good day
out.
What to do at night - Find
the night market for a plate of Pad Thai or Kao Pad Goong, or better
still, visit one of the large floating restaurants on the river.
Kanchanaburi is a popular destination for Thai tourists, and you'll see
large family groups splashing out on seafood banquets in the floating
restaurants. You should also try out one of the open-air karaoke
places,
because, well why not? I can't tell you much about the disco rafts, apart
from saying they're noisy.