Lampang
- is a quiet little provincial town, about 100km south-east of Chiang
Mai. It's off the standard tourist trail, with a selection of temples,
a few hotels and guest houses, and one or two places to go in the evening
for fans of country music and Thai folk/rock songs. It's where my
wife, Pong, is from, and it's quite pleasant to hang out there for a few
days. It's set either side of the river Wang, which runs east-west across
town, and has a population of about 50,000.
How to get there - You
can fly from Bangkok via Phitsanulok in about an hour, I think twice a
day. It's also on the Bangkok-Chiang Mai railway line, and there are
regular buses from Chiang Mai's Arcade bus station. They take about 2
hours.
Where to stay - I
usually head for the Asia Lampang Hotel on
Thanon Boonyawat, south of the
river. The rooms are fairly basic, but they come with hot and cold
showers, TV and air conditioning. There's a decent little restaurant
attached, and there's the "Sweety Room" bar in the basement,
where you can listen to a band or two with a cold beer, after a hard
night's entertainment elsewhere in town. Other options, which I haven't
tried, include the Riverside Lampang Guesthouse, No. 4 Guest House, and
the more expensive Tipchang Hotel.
What to do in the day - Go
for a wander around town.
If you head to the north bank of the river,
there's a concentration of temples to the east, or you can take a trip out
to the temple called Wat Phrathat Lampang
Luang. It's half an hour away in a hired
song-tao, and you'll need to ask the driver to wait for you for an hour or
so while you wander round and get a cold drink. In July 2000, three of us
paid the driver 300B in total for the round trip. The guide books say it's
one of the architectural highlights of northern Thailand. Well, I wouldn't
go that far, not knowing anything at all about it, but you can judge for
yourself - there's some photos below. You can
also go for a clip-clop around town in one of Lampang's famous and
brightly decorated horse-drawn carriages.
I have absolutely no idea why
these are popular in this one Thai town, but they are.
What to do at night - The food's
generally good at the Riverside Restaurant, where you can sit on the
candle-lit terrace, overlooking the river, and listen to the house band
play (cringe) Country Roads and (double cringe) Hotel California. There's a
couple of little bars on the way there, where you can also get food, beer
and live music, and there's the Santa Fe pub/restaurant on
Thanon Booyawat
west of the Asia Lampang. For some reason, the Thais refer to this place
as "Mot Yim",
which I think translates as Smiling Ant, but the sign definitely says
"Santa Fe". Almost opposite Mot Yim on Thanon Boonyawat is a large
barn of a pub/restaurant where the bands play Thai folk/rock songs and Pua Cheewit ("songs for life", or
protest songs). There are also a selection of foodstalls nearby in
the night market.